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Postcards from Paris June 2012
It’s summer in the City of Love
Postcards from Paris Video Newsletter, June 2012
The weather’s fabulous!
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Did you enjoy this newsletter? You might also like to view the Postcards from Paris Archives.
The weather’s fabulous!
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Did you enjoy this newsletter? You might also like to view the Postcards from Paris Archives.
If you’re wondering where to find fabric at Marché St Pierre in Paris, I have a few tips for you.
Yesterday I reacquainted myself with the wonderful fabric district at the foot of Sacre Coeur in Montmartre. Before I came out of the metro at Anvers, I spotted a very cute little RATP Information desk, so I popped over to have a look at the maps and information on offer.
This is the first one I’ve seen in the metro, and the two young people spoke English and were very helpful. If you see these info desks, do have a look and see if there’s any info which can help you while you’re in Paris.
As I came up out of the metro I was presented with a scene I hadn’t seen for a few years, the wonderful craziness of people, noise, traffic, and shops particular to this part of paris, with the prospect of seeing my old favourite fabric stores in the next few minutes. I crossed the street and walked up rue du Steinkerke where some of the touristy shops were open, and others would open later – if you want to find cute and/or kitschy Paris souvenirs, check out this street :-)
I met my friend Gaby (who shares my love of fabric) outside Marché St Pierre, and we decided to have a coffee first and then explore the stores, starting with Marché St Pierre.
I asked a couple of chaps who worked at Marché St Pierre if there were any little cafes close by (as I wanted to avoid the touristy ones which were filled with tourists), and at first they said the one we could see across the road was the only one. We thanked them and decided to go on a little search, but one of the chaps mentioned there was one “vrai café” just down the road (a true French cafe) so off we went.
We found the Cafe Orsel (we were on rue d’Orsel) and he was right – it was an authentic looking cafe and not a tourist to be seen :-)
I ordered the coffees at the bar and watched while they were made – totally impressed that it looked like the barista was using real milk to heat up, so I asked him and he confirmed it – fabulous!
The Marché St Pierre is a building which houses every imagineable type of fabric you might need, all under the one roof.
Of course I wanted to see the silk first, so we walked up the stairs to level 2 (there is a lift in the back right-hand-corner of the store, for those with mobility problems). On the ground floor you can see what’s where – it’s printed on the steps of the staircase :-)
We ended up looking around on every floor and we wanted to buy LOTS of fabric, but we also knew there were many streets surrounding this building filled with other stores we needed to investigate first. What a wonderful thing to do for the whole day in Paris!
I have lots more photos to upload and videos, so stay tuned!
I have other pages on how to find fabric at Marché St Pierre and other Textile shops in Paris
In true over-the-top style, the Gay Pride in Paris festival got off to a great start in the Bastille area on 30th June 2012!
I got off the Metro at St Paul (one stop from Bastille) and the crowds were gathering, some streets were blocked for pedestrian only access, and there were balloons festooning some of the streets.
I came across this guy whom I can only call Penis Guy, for obvious reasons, and he was having a fantastic time
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ivwy_ep_T64
Tourists and locals walking around Bastille / St Paul area in the Marais (a district of Paris around 75004):
When I left home this morning, I didn’t know I was going to find some where to eat Vietnamese for lunch.
The expected temperature was 29 degrees Celcius with rain predicted. As I stepped out the front door I was surprised that there was a gentle rain falling already, but pleased that it might keep things cool.
After vanishing into the depths of Strassbourg-St-Denis metro, and manouvering my way through the throngs of people, I eventually found my way to the platform for Line 9 heading in the direction of . One stop later I stepped off the underground train at Republique, and navigated to Line 11 in the direction of de Lilas; two short stops later I disembarked at Belleville, and began the long climb to the surface.
The temperature in the metro tunnels and on the train was unbearably hot and the humidity felt about 95%, everyone was feeling hot and bothered, perspiration dripping down everyone’s face.
Tip! Don’t get off the metro at Belleville – go one more stop to Pyrenee which is really close to the restaurant.
Using the Metro Exit 2 where I was to meet my friends, I quickly found some shade under a large tree close by. I started thinking about air-conditioned stores in the tourist parts of Paris, and wondered how long the heatwave would last.
My friends Marlys and Leila arrived and we started walking up rue de Belleville in search of the Cyclo Café which Marlys was taking us to. We passed many stores selling Chinese groceries and homewares in tightly packed premises, a very nice boulangerie and epicerie which were quite a contrast from the surrounding buildings and shops. On the right hand side of the street, we came to number 78 and stepped into the cute little restaurant.
Although there was no airconditioning (and it wasn’t really expected :-), it was cool inside and the waiter was very welcoming. There were chopsticks on the table housed in cute little bamboo holders, and the menu was small but everything sounded delicious.
For starters we ordered Nems (mini spring rolls, 4 in the serve) which were served with small lettuce cups. We each placed a spring roll in a lettuce cup and rolled them up – mmm yummy!
Our main courses came and mine looked fabulous – warm pork and noodles, shredded carrot on top and some lettuce on the side. Oh it was delicious and I enjoyed every mouthful!
Whenever I have Asian food, I love to drink Jasmine tea, and today was no exception. It has a way of cooling me down on a hot day, and I had this phrase going through my head, “Mad dogs and Englishmen out in the midday sun.”
After much catching up and laughing, we decided to have dessert as well – I chose the Creme Brulee with Mango, the perfect end to a great lunch.
So if you’re in the Belleville area or just feel like a great Vietnamese meal, head on over to Cyclo – let me know if you do :-)
Cyclo Vietnamese Café Restaurant
78 rue de Belleville
75020 Paris
Tel: +33 1 40 33 48 86
Metro: Pyrenée
If you’re looking for other things to eat, check out some famous French food.
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Rue Saint Denis is Paris’ “red light district” where the ladies of the night meet gentlemen who are looking for company.
OK so that’s a polite way to put it :-)
Many people are nervous about the rue Saint Denis but if you’re sensible and keep your wits about you, you’ll be fine. As with any city’s streets you’re not familiar with, keep a hold of your handbag and make sure wallets are secure. Don’t pull out your smartphone and flash it around.
I rented an apartment in a little street off rue St Denis in the 2nd arrondissement, and there were ‘ladies of the night’ on the corner of my little street during the day. I spoke with several local residents over several days who advised that it’s perfectly safe during the day, and up until late at night.
During the day there are many businesses open from clothing, handbag and shoe stores. to cafes and restaurants, and it’s also the wholesale fashion district.
Yes the rue St Denis might have a seedy appearance in some areas, but it’s also rich and colourful with many ethnic shops and restaurants. One well-known example is Passage Brady, which houses some marvellous and authentic Indian restaurants.
Passage Brady
46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
75010 Paris
Nearby Opéra – Grands Boulevards, République – Gares de l’Est et du Nord – 10e Arrondissement
India in Paris! Passage Brady, built in 1828, is one of the rare Parisian arcades composed of two parts which are separated by Boulevard de Strasbourg. On one side, the arcade is covered by a glass roof, and on the other it is in the open air. A visit to Passage Brady is an invitation to a visual, sensory and aromatic journey. Commonly referred to as ‘Little India’, it houses numerous Indo-Pakistani, Mauritian and Reunion businesses. People come here for a break to eat tasty, spicy food, to buy exotic products, and even to hire colourful outfits! This beautifully decorated universe is also accessible via 22 or 33 Boulevard de Strasbourg and 43 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin (for the open-air part).
What was your experience in this part of Paris? Please do let me know:
Enjoy your armchair travel in Paris via my website, or if you’re planning your trip or are already there — have a fabulous time!
I’d love to hear from you – I love Paris! XOXOX
Teena Hughes in Australia
A wonderful thought, but if you’re bringing your iPhone on holidays (from outside France, like the Optus network in Australia) you need to be aware of a few things. Here is a small section of the map of Paris showing the City of Paris WIFI hotspots:
UPDATE 14th July 2015
When I arrived a week or so ago, I didn’t really think much about using my iPhone apart from when I would be in Wifi areas. Optus had advised me to go to my iPhone settings and make sure I turned off ‘roaming’ so I wouldn’t incur astronomical charges while abroad:
TIP! WIFI is pronounced differently in French, and sounds like “WEE-FEE”
I didn’t really think I’d need to use my iPhone for much else because I have a travel cellphone which I use when I’m in France. I already had one from my last trip, but you can easily buy one in many phone stores for about 30 euros. For this travel cellphone:
For the Optus iPhone I brought with me from Australia, I can access some Apps (maps which have been downloaded and a few other things) without being in a WiFi zone.
If you’re wondering where to find those Wifi zones, you’re in luck:
here’s a map from Starbucksto show you where a lot of their Wifi-enabled cafés are:
The City of Paris has very generously provided for Wifi hotspots all over the city:
If you really want to use your phone 24/7 and not have to find a Wifi hotspot, this is a great solution and not very expensive. The only drawback for some people is that you will have a different phone number for the duration of your visit – but at the same time you’re avoiding exorbitant fees appearing on your home phone bill.
UPDATE 25th October 2012 – On my return to Australia and on receiving my very first iPhone bill, I was very relieved to see that no charges had been incurred (because I’d followed the instructions to avoid them) – phew!
Have fun with your iPhone in Paris! If you’d like to know my local phone guy, let me know – I’m happy to pass on his details.
I first read about Cafe Coutume in an article in the Melbourne Age newspaper a while back, then was reminded about it again from my new friend Heath in Melbourne (Heath is one of my Postcards from Paris subscribers, and we met for the first time a couple of weeks ago in Melbourne).
From the article and others I’d read, I had a list of cafés to visit which were either owned by Aussies, run by Aussies or had Baristas trained in Australia. We’re such a nation of drinkers who appreciate good tasty Italian coffee that I was excited to go on a Latte Adventure in Paris, and see how each place fared.
The sun came out today, the second day so far in my first week back in Paris, so it’ll be lovely being out in the sunshine.
Today’s adventure was my second – yesterday’s attempt to have a coffee at Merce and the Muse in the Marais, was a dismal failure. It was Tuesday morning – and they were closed :-(
My latte looks great from the top
I worked out which bus to catch from Blvd de Bonne Nouvelle in the 2nd arrondissement, and hopped aboard the number 39 bus heading south. It was 12 stops through Paris and what a grand bus adventure it was, slipping into different parts of Paris from wide fabulous boulevardes to teeny tiny narrow streets where I felt we all breathed in (and held our breath) to help the bus escape unscathed.
I decided to get off the bus at the Sevres-Babylone stop, then I located rue de Babylone, and started walk, I passed a fabulous big gated park on my left and made a note have a picnic there one day. I kept walking and soon enough located number 47 on the left side of the narrow street.
With much anticipation (and the burning desire to have a really great Aussie-style latte) I approached the café and liked what I saw. Lots of white tiles on the counter fronts making it feel crisp and clean. Most of the tables were already taken (it was around 11:00 a.m.-ish) and I asked the Barista whether it was table service or counter service. The Barista had a lovely French accent and told me to grab a table and the waitress would be with me soon. I settled in and looked around at the clientele – some closest to me were speaking English with an Aussie accent, and there were plenty of French speakers too. Mums with strollers were peppered throughout the little cafe and it was a nice hubbub of noise.
I waited patiently for a while while the waitress buzzed around keeping very busy. After a while I thought I’d waited long enough, and then I found it was impossible to make eye contact with her so I flagged her down and ordered a latte.
My criteria for an excellent latte is:
While I waited I checked out who was using laptops and smartphones, and asked for the Wifi login. On my iPhone I checked out the Settings/Wifi and found “Coutume” – the password is “CoutumeCafe”. The waitress told me it’s sometimes difficult to get connected, and today she’s right – I couldn’t connect.
I saw a few lattes going by on their way to their new owners (which looked very pale by my standards), so by the time mine arrived I was hanging out to have what I thought might be the best coffee so far in Paris in my first week back here. I won’t keep you in suspense – I was disappointed. The coffee wasn’t strong enough, hot enough, thick and creamy like an Aussie latte. I persevered but no, it just wasn’t worth it for me, so I only drank half of it. When the colour is too milky and the froth at the top is not thick and creamy and about half an inch (1.25cm) deep, I know it may not be what I’m looking for.
As always with coffee reviews, this is my experience on one coffee on one day; if I return I may have a totally different experience – I’m looking forward to that. So go along, buy a coffee and let me know what you think.
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While looking for a café which had been recommended, I came across a gorgeous little restaurant – Le Bistrot Gourmand.
Nestled in a side street, it was charming inside and out, and the two ladies were delightful. The “Formule” (combination available for lunch) was 13,90 euros – you could choose either a starter/entree plus a main course, or the main course plus a dessert. I opted for the sectond and was delighted with my choice.
For the main course I chose the Sauté de Veau Marignon, with a glass of red “vin du mois” (wine of the month):
Tender morsels of veal, potatoes Dauphinois, pasta twirls, saute of carrot, onion & other vegetables, with mashed sweet potato. Delicious!
For dessert I went with the Apple “Charlotte aux Pommes” with cream.
Yes, I waddled out of there very happy and in desperate need of an afternoon nap!
If you’re in Paris looking for a fabulous little place to have a delicious lunch at an excellent price, check out Le Bistrot Gourmand – you won’t regret it.
The Formule of 2 courses is 13,90 euro, the glass of wine 3,90 euro.
1 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, 75003 Paris
tel: 01 42 74 64 95
Metro: Temple
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When I saw this infographic, I thought it was really cool and I wanted to share it with you. I don’t agree with all of it, but that’s ok, everyone can do as much or as little as they like out of these tips for plane travel.
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I know it’s long, but it really doesn’t take much time to read it. If you’re heading to Paris, France and you’ve got a long journey ahead of you, these tips might come in handy.
I’ve written all kinds of tips on this site about Paris and travel – to find them easily, you can use the search box and type : tips
I actually love travelling on planes and have done many trips between Australia and the USA, Canada, France, New Zealand (not so far, only 3 hrs), Mauritius – just to name a few. One of my favourite tips for plane travel is about jetlag – if you’re going a very long distance, I always assume the local time on arrival, and make sure I stay up until 8:00pm. I do allow myself a nap of ONE hour only if I’m exhausted (after flying from Sydney to Paris for 24 hrs), and try to get out and keep busy all day. If I stay in my room, it would be too easy to sleep the day away, and then it takes twice as long to get over jet lag. If you’d like to read more, pop over to this post: How to beat jetlag – one of my super duper tips for plane travel :-)
The weather’s warming up – woohoo! Here is April’s video newsletter:
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Finding the best place to stay in Paris could include apartments to rent
Hi Rob,
Hi Teena, I will be staying in Paris in late June for 11 days with my wife and two late-teen daughters. We need accommodation and think an apartment would be best for that length of stay. We wish to do the usual central Paris highlights (Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, tour of the Seine etc). Can you recommend whether an apartment is the way to go and which part of Paris would be best for our stay to get a first sample of Paris life; markets, shops, events etc. Any particular things to look for in regard to accommodation amenities would be appreciated. Thank you.
Rob
You’ll be in Paris at the same time as me, a lovely time of year :-)
Yes an apartment will be a wonderful solution, rather than a hotel. There are many apartment rental websites for Paris, and a few questions to ask and to look out for might be:
I’d avoid staying out on the edges of the city (called the “Peripherique”, which is like a “belt” [“ceinture”] around the 20 suburbs/districts/arrondissements) mostly because it will take longer to get into the heart of Paris and easily come and go to your apartment. There are so so many fabulous districts to stay in, it’s too hard to list them all. As long as read the Reviews on the apartment websites, you’ll see what other folks have said about the location, cleanliness etc.
If you might enjoy being near the markets, here is a list:
When you look at a map of Paris, I could easily say the Arrondissements 1 through to 11 would be perfect, and the outer ones maybe not. But then there are fabulous little pockets of Parisian life everywhere, and if you’re there for 11 days, you might not need to be right in the thick of things – here is a map which shows the 20 arrondissements (numbered from 74001 to 75020, which is the actual postcode of each of the 20 suburbs).
I hope this has been of some help, bon voyage and good luck finding the best place to stay in Paris!!!
Cheers
Teena
When our thoughts turn to spring, we dream of sunshine & picnics! Here is this week’s video newsletter:
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