Finding a traditional French restaurant in Paris is great!
On a drizzly evening when I was looking for something delicious for dinner, I wandered around a little quartier I wasn’t familiar with. There was a Lebanese restaurant and French bistrots, and then nestled – almost hidden – between some shops I found A Deux Pas.
I shook the rain off the umbrella and stepped inside this cute little place. I was disappointed to see “Reservé” (“Reserved”) signs on the tables, but I asked if there was room for one more. When the lady told me that they had one table left I was really pleased, and got settled at the first small table just inside the door on the left.
After reading the menu I could certainly agree that this traditional French restaurant in Paris had some marvellous options, and as soon as I saw “it” I knew what I was going to order.
While I waited to place my order, I took in the cool artwork on the walls, and had a good look around. There were 5 small tables along each of the two available walls, and the whole place was about 10′ or 3 metres wide. Each table could accommodate two people, so a maximum of 20 people in the entire restaurant. At the end of the room was the cash register and an open window into the kitchen where I could see the Chef.
I decided not to have a starter course, as I didn’t want to fill up before my steak with Bernaise sauce arrived (filet de boeuf avec sauce Bernaise is one of my all-time favourites from when I lived in Paris). I asked the delightful owner to recommend a glass of red wine (I think it was Corbierre) and I settled back to savour the thought of my dinner about to be prepared in the kitchen. My tastebuds were salivating with anticipation :-)
The owner returned and placed a gorgeous little bowl in front of me, and said it was a little “amuse bouche” to prepare my mouth for the first course. It was a small amount of soft white cheese, almost like ricotta, with hot bacon pieces sprinkled on top. A drizzle of honey had been added which made this a delicious and very interesting little taste sensation – what a lovely gesture!
When my dinner arrived, it looked absolutely fabulous. And it tasted delicious!
In fact I can remember the taste as I type this … the sign of an excellent meal. The filet de boeuf (fillet of steak) was resting in the centre of a platter, with a small bowl of Sauce Bernaise, and a larger bowl filled with small roasted potatoes drizzled with garlic and onion confit. Oh my! I’m in heaven :-)
The restaurant filled up very quickly with other diners, and I thoroughly enjoyed my little adventure here. I can highly recommend this restaurant if you’re in the area.
A Deux Pas
Traditional French restaurant in Paris
55 rue Saint Maur 75011 Paris
Ouvert du mardi au samedi midi et soir le dimanche midi / Open from Tuesday to Saturday lunch & dinner, & Sunday lunch
Absolutely! Margaritas to knock your socks off, real guacamole to tingle your tastebuds :-)
A couple of new friends invited me to meet them at this little place at 7:0pm without any explainations of what it was like, so I took the Metro to Filles du Calvair (Boulevard du Temple exit) and headed north, ambling along until I came to rue de Saintonge on my left.
Turning into this street, I discovered all kinds of cute and interesting shops and almost had to drag myself along the street until I found the restaurant.
About as big as a postage stamp, there was one table just inside the door which seated about 7 people. Further inside there were a couple of high stools where people could sit at the counter and eat. The counter had a great old icy drink machine which was chilling a margarita mix and I was anxiously awaiting the result (haven’t had a good margarita in years!)
While I waited for my friends, I ordered Guacamole to nibble on with excellent corn chips (none of those crumbly packet varieties), and before I knew it the margarita was ready for me to sip.
Oh how delicious it was! A small glass with a red-crusted rim, it tasted divine, and was just what I needed after a busy day exploring Paris. Slowly the hungry hordes started to arrive, and I was lucky to be able to hang on to only one spare stool for my friends to sit on. The place got quite busy, very quickly, and everyone lusted over the table — I was hanging on with both hands :-)
When my friends arrived 40 minutes later, we managed to grab two extra stools as another party got up from the table, and the four of us perched around the Guacamole and Mexican beers while we all caught up on our news, told stories, and talked about what we might order. By now the place was really buzzing, and as a few bodies left they were replaced by more from the crowd outside. My tip – get here at 7pm if you really want to grab a seat at the table.
The items on the menu started from about 3,50 euro so between us we ordered a few of each item – soft tacos, hard tacos – which came in a variety of colours with enough sauces to satisfy any hungry crowd looking for delicious spicy Mexican food.
The beers flowed, the food fed our hungry stomachs, laughter followed and a great night was had by all. We eventually left closer to 10pm than 9:30, because the demand for the table was still high :-)
If you’re looking for authentic flavour, check out the Candelaria Mexican restaurant – I think you’ll be glad you did!
Finding the best place to stay in Paris could include apartments to rent
Hi Rob,
Thanks for your email:
Hi Teena, I will be staying in Paris in late June for 11 days with my wife and two late-teen daughters. We need accommodation and think an apartment would be best for that length of stay. We wish to do the usual central Paris highlights (Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, tour of the Seine etc). Can you recommend whether an apartment is the way to go and which part of Paris would be best for our stay to get a first sample of Paris life; markets, shops, events etc. Any particular things to look for in regard to accommodation amenities would be appreciated. Thank you.
Rob
You’ll be in Paris at the same time as me, a lovely time of year :-)
Yes an apartment will be a wonderful solution, rather than a hotel. There are many apartment rental websites for Paris, and a few questions to ask and to look out for might be:
Is it easy to get in contact with someone after you arrive, in case you need help with anything in the apartment (water doesn’t work, etc etc etc). Make sure you get a local contact number … just in case.
Make sure that when you are given the key you do a quick inspection WITH the person handing over the key; if there are any obvious things you need to mention (like cleanliness) this would be the best time to bring it up, so there are no surprises later when you try to get your Deposit back.
Which floor is the apartment on? if it’s not the ground floor, is there a lift or elevator? French buildings are centuries old, and so many older apartments do NOT have lifts. Check to make sure before you pay any money, as this could definitely be a deal breaker. Nothing worse than having to walk up and down 5 or 6 flights of stairs several times a day. French translation of lift/elevator is “ascenseur”, and stairs is “escalier”.
Many apartments have very small kitchenettes and bar fridges rather than full-size fridges; with a family of four you might need to look for a full-size fridge and better cooking facilities.
Will you want wifi? Many apartments will have it for free, but you will need to ask if it’s not listed.
How close is it to the nearest Metro? You may not want to be walking for 15-20 minutes if you’re in a hurry to catch a train.
How close are the shops to buy bread, milk, staples? Again, the closer the better. Many apartment owners provide detailed maps and instructions to help you get oriented, but it’s also good to ask in advance.
Many apartments have a Cleaning Fee to be paid when you leave, or you could opt to do the cleaning yourselves. Give this one some thought – speaking from experience – do you really feel like scrubbing toilets and washing linen etc the day you’re moving out? It’s often easier to just pay the cleaning fee and not have to hassle with washing the sheets etc.
If you ARE lucky enough to get a washing machine with your apartment, don’t jump for glee just yet. It’s quite normal for a ‘wash’ to take up to 2 hours – this is just how the washing machines work, and it’s much faster to simply go to a laundromat to wash AND dry your clothes. I used to live there, with AND without a washing machine, and have recently rented an apartment in Paris which had a washing machine. I was very disappointed to discover they still take 2 hours to do one small load of washing (without drying). Luckily you can find laundromats everywhere as it’s quite common to NOT have a machine at home (small apartment sizes).
The size of the apartment may or may not be a factor for you, and of course the larger the place the more you’ll pay.
For the best place to stay in Paris
I’d avoid staying out on the edges of the city (called the “Peripherique”, which is like a “belt” [“ceinture”] around the 20 suburbs/districts/arrondissements) mostly because it will take longer to get into the heart of Paris and easily come and go to your apartment. There are so so many fabulous districts to stay in, it’s too hard to list them all. As long as read the Reviews on the apartment websites, you’ll see what other folks have said about the location, cleanliness etc.
If you might enjoy being near the markets, here is a list:
When you look at a map of Paris, I could easily say the Arrondissements 1 through to 11 would be perfect, and the outer ones maybe not. But then there are fabulous little pockets of Parisian life everywhere, and if you’re there for 11 days, you might not need to be right in the thick of things – here is a map which shows the 20 arrondissements (numbered from 74001 to 75020, which is the actual postcode of each of the 20 suburbs).
Historic mansions in the Marais district (75003) of Paris house the wonderful French archives – these buildings are known as “hotels particuliers” (translates to “historic mansions”).
It’s free to visit the French Archives and you’ll be able to see :
the original Declaration on the Rights of Man and of the Citizen dating from 1789
letters from Louis XVI
a papyrus dated AD625 which was issued by King Chlotar II.
Locations:
Rue des Archives or Hotel de Soubise on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois ( the Museum of French History can be found here)
you’ll also be able to visit three small gardens – Jardin d’Assy, Jardin Fontenay and Jardin Jaucourt (“jardin” translates to “garden”)
Map and location of each address for the French archives http://www.archivesnationales.culture.gouv.fr/chan/chan/presentation.html – you might also enjoy What to do in Paris, France.
Map of 3rd Arrondissement, 75003 Paris (le “troisieme”, the “third”)
[mappress mapid=”15″]
If you do visit the French archives in Paris, I’d love to hear what you enjoyed most – post a Comment below if you have a moment, thanks!!
Ahhhhh it’s that time of year when I’m ready to buy my airplane ticket so I can go and buy postcards from Paris – in person! Woohoo! Here is this week’s video newsletter:
Teena here, hoping you’re having a superb holiday season, and like me your mind might be thinking of Paris … I hope so!
I’m just about to book my ticket to go to Paris in June, so I’m absorbing myself in the culture by reading some great books about Paris, some of which were Christmas gifts – woohoo!
if you’ve read any great books about Paris you’d like to recommend and/or write a little blurb about, do let me know and I’ll add them to my site – thanks in advance!
[jbutton color=”orange” size=”xlarge” link=”https://a-night-in-paris.com/adventures.html”]Join me in Paris?? I’ll be there in June/July 2012 and would love it if you came along on one of my Adventures!![/jbutton]
Today’s Video Newsletter
Here is today’s quick Video Newsletter – Postcards from Paris. Click the video to view:
I’ve created a fabulous page for my Postcards from Paris Subscribersto print out, and I had so much fun preparing it! It’s in PDF (Portable Document Format) which means that everyone with a computer can view it, and it’s attached to the Newsletter email.
The first page is a list of all the months of the year showing the major events in Paris.
You’ll be able to print this out and take it with you on your trip.
The second page is a list of all the internet links for the events – which will be clickable when opened on your computer device or smart-phone, to take you straight to the info you’d like to read.
If you’re one of my subscribers and you don’t have Adobe Acrobat installed to be able to view the document, pop over to http://Adobe.com and download – it’s a freebie :-)
Today’s Useful French
Watch today’s video to hear the pronunciation for these French words and phrases:
That’s it for today, I look forward to chatting with you on Twitter and Facebook, and please do post a comment on the website – it’d be so nice to hear from you.
Like the new Newsletter style or new website format? I’d love to know what you think!
Teena Hughes
Not on the Postcards from Paris mailing list?
Did someone send you this email because they thought you might enjoy it? That’s fantastic! Why not sign up for yourself, so you’ll receive it in your inbox too?
Have you ever asked, “How do I say that in French?”
"Moulin Rouge" means "Red Mill" in English
If you have, you’re not alone :-)
Many people would love to speak French, especially if they are about to visit France, or my favourite city – Paris.
I’ve created a few pages on my site already with questions written in French and even accompanied by videos, helping folks to order tea and coffee, with simple French phrases.
(PS – the “Moulin Rouge” means “Red Mill” in English, and is located in Paris.)
Now I’m going to start creating new informati0n for you, called:
“How do I say that in French?”
I’ll create a new page for each French word or phrase, and then I’ll add them to this page here to make it easy to find them.
If you have any requests, let me know! Type in the Comments below, and I’ll add your word or phrase to my list. I’m looking forward to helping you answer that question – “How do I say that in French?”!
tell them what has happened, and ask them to please help you contact the company direct to solve the issue
if necessary, contact your credit card company (or bank) and tell them there has been a problem with a particular company, and ask for their advice
ask whether you can put the payment “on hold” until the problem is “resolved”.
When you have received advice from both your credit card company or bank, as well as the Tourist Information Office, you will be in a better position to deal with the problem.
Act on the problem straight away, don’t leave it for weeks, as it’s best to sort it out as quickly as possible.
If you’d like to complain because you’ve had a problem with a Velib in Paris
Just like in any other city, things can go wrong when you rent or hire a Velib in Paris.
Take photos of the the bike, the lock – everything – in case you need to present them to make your case.
If you have a problem with overcharging, contact VELIB immediately.
Whatever you do, DO NOT get angry – be calm and provide exactly what they’re asking for, and it should all get sorted to everyone’s satisfaction.
Best of luck!
Teena Hughes
Getting Around : other Paris transport system options
Whether you’re in Paris as a tourist or a local, and you’d like to buy some Chinese groceries then a great place to start is TANG FRERES (Tang Brothers).
The main store is located in the 13th arrondissement, and you can buy coconut milk, lacquered duck, tofu, Lychee juice, curry, fresh Asian fruits and vegetables and all your Chinese grocery needs.
It’s packed on weekends so get there early to avoid the crowds.
Tang Freres
Supermarché (supermarket)
48 Ave d’Ivry
75013 Paris
I’ve just heard about Francois, an amazing chef who whips up the most delicious Paella in Paris … all from his trusty van parked at a local market twice a week.
Francois makes the paella from scratch, and if you are there on a Saturday, you’ll need to wait until around 11:30am. I’d be tempted to buy a couple of the other dishes to take home for dinner :-)
The very generous serves are 7 euro (at Oct 2009) and you’ll be in for a real treat.
If you’re not up for the Paella or would simply like to try one of the other dishes, check out Francois’ tasty treats:
chicken stew with white beans and
beef Bourguignon
chicken fricassee
big sausages with lentils.
Where to find Francois’s Paella at the Market
Baudoyer market
Place Baudoyer, between rue de Rivoli & rue Francois Miron, 4th arrondissement 75004
Metro:Hotel de Ville, St. Paul
Open Saturday 7AM-3PM- Note: paella is not ready till about 11:30AM
Wednesday 3PM-8:30PM
Ile Saint Louis (Island of Saint Louis) is the gorgeous island in the River Seine in Paris. You’ll find this fab little typical French restaurant –Auberge de la Reine Blanche – on the island opposite a picturesque little church (easy to find).
Once you step into Auberge, you’ll be in a very busy quaint old retaurant where the tables are so close you can’t help but chat with your dining neighbours :-)
Eating here is like a big old family dinner, and the staff are so lovely and welcoming, even though they seem to be rushed off their feet as they zip through the tiny spaces between tables. I bet you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you classic French meals arrive – excellent quality, great value. Go for the Prix Fixe – Fixed Price – Menu for a meal which suits just about all budget-conscious diners.
Let me know what you think, post a Comment on this page – I love to see whether my readers enjoy the places I recommend :-)
If you’re travelling with children, make your kids a Travel Journal before you leave home, and document the things they loved about where they were visiting.
Buy mini-staplers (they’re so tiny!) and glue sticks and supervise if necessary as your kids staple in business cards from toy stores, museums etc you’ve visited. If you forget to buy before you leave home, buy on arrival in a supermarket.
Encourage them to :
DATE each item
DRAW in their Travel Journal
and WRITE about what they liked … and didn’t like :-)
Help them create PAGES at the start of your trip for things like:
What are the new foods I tried?
What is the best candy I tried? (or “lollies”)
What are the new words I learnt?
What are the most fun/boring museums we visited?
Explain how they can answer these questions whenever they like throughout the trip, and they’ll have fun drawing on the pages to remind them.
Show them how to staple cool stuff in their Travel Journal, like:
the entry ticket to a museum
or a brochure about the Catacombs
or a business card from that fabulous icecream place where you had so much fun
perhaps a postcard of a tourist attraction like the Eiffel Tower
or maybe even a price tag from something they purchased, the brighter and more colourful the better
you can even staple in the tear-off luggage tags from their bags – and boarding pass stubs – to get them started.
They can cut out words from tourist brochures and glue or staple into their book, then write what it means in English beside it.
When you get back home, go over your Travel Journals together to remember the fun you had and to share your experiences again – the kids will love this!
My Travel Journals to buy online
I’ve created several new travel journals with my own photos and designs, which have unlined pages (great for drawing!).
The spiral spine allows the kids to open the journals flat or fold under while they write on the pages, great for travelling.
Order these to arrive before you leave on your trip, and the kids can start putting in some headings and questions at the top of the pages.
Be one of the first to own this new Journal!
Size: 4.5 x 8.5″
50 pages/100 sheets
Introductory Price to 7th July 2014: $US14.97 + shipping $5.00 worldwide (total $19.97)
I love sending postcards when I’m travelling, and today’s travel tip for sending postcards is going to make it easy for you – and it has two parts.
Travel Tip for Sending Postcards #1
Before you leave home on your big adventure to Paris (or Sydney, Suez, Scandinavia or Sarawak), type up the names and addresses of people you’d like to write to – straight onto a sticky label or address label layout on your computer.
Simply print this onto the sticky labels, and take it with you.
You can even use labels with images, or add your own.
Depending on how long you’re travelling, you might like to duplicate some of the names etc to create more than one label per person.
If you haven’t used all the labels by the time you get back home, you can use them to send birthday cards, Christmas cards etc – an added bonus :-)
Travel Tip for Sending Postcards #2
Now I don’t know if anyone else will think this is a good idea, but I ALWAYS take sticky labels with me which have my HOME details printed on them. I can use these on the postcards [making sure to trim them and write FROM so the postman won’t get confused :-) ] and I can also give them to people I meet along the way … I always carry a notebook so I can put their stickers straight into my book and make a note of the date and place we met.
Of course these days many people have smartphones, so they can use Apps to share their details – but my tip is a bit more “old school” :-)
Merry Christmas! Happy Holidays! Happy New Year!
Today’s Video Newsletter
Hi there Michael,
Whether you’re in Paris as a tourist or a local, and you’d like to buy some Chinese groceries then a great place to start is TANG FRERES (Tang Brothers).
If you’re travelling with children, make your kids a Travel Journal before you leave home, and document the things they loved about where they were visiting.
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